Studi Faktor Penentu Akresi dan Abrasi Pantai Akibat Gelombang Laut di Perairan Pesisir Sungai Duri
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26418/pf.v5i3.22519Abstract
Telah dilakukan penelitian untuk mengkaji perubahan garis pantai akibat gelombang laut di perairan pesisir Sungai Duri. Parameter yang dihitung adalah tinggi gelombang signifikan, arah datang gelombang dan faktor penentu perubahan garis pantai. Perhitungan yang digunakan adalah metode Wilson untuk menghasilkan tinggi dan periode gelombang sedangkan perhitungan faktor akresi dan abrasi menggunakan perhitungan yang dikemukakan oleh Horikawa . Tinggi gelombang, arah datang gelombang dan nilai faktor akresi dan abrasi tersebut dianalisis rata-rata tahunan setiap musim dari tahun 2003 s.d tahun 2016. Hasil penelitian menunjukan bahwa tinggi gelombang signifikan berkisar antara 0,04 m s.d 0,5 m, tinggi gelombang terendah berada pada tahun 2012 pada musim peraihan II dan tinggi gelombang tertinggi berada pada tahun 2004 pada musim timur. Pada musim barat gelombang dominan datang dari arah timur, pada musim peralihan I gelombang dominan datang dari arah timur laut, pada musim timur gelombang dominan datang dari arah barat daya dan pada musim peralihan II gelombang dominan datang dari arah barat daya. Hasil perhitungan di lokasi yang sama menunjukan bahwa pada tahun 2003 mengalami akresi dan pada tahun 2004 hingga 2016 pantai mengalami keseimbangan perubahan garis pantai karena diakibatkan oleh gelombang laut.
Kata Kunci : Tinggi Gelombang, Arah Datang Gelombang, Akresi, Abrasi
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Date: 24-05-2023
Prisma Fisika
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